Missy Cosplay: Part the Second (Pattern Cutting)

Today I spent cutting the pieces for the jacket for Missy.  I managed to watch the whole of Iron Man 3 and an episode of Orphan Black just while cutting out the paper pattern pieces and making some modifications.  This is going to be a long project to make …

As I said in the first part of this series of posts, I’m substituting in the collar and sleeves from another pattern for a coat of the same period.  The sleeves *should* be a straight-forward bait-and-switch.  Famous last words, no doubt.  But we’ll come to those in a later post.

So, in order to steal the collar from the second coat I traced the top of the fronts onto some baking parchment (no expense spared …) twice.  Once each for the front, and the front facing. I then taped these bits of baking parchment onto the pattern pieces, and modified the lines as need be with some more scraps of parchment.  I used the pattern notches on the front and the facing to make sure that I’d lined up each piece of the baking parchment so that they matched.   I’ve used Magic Tape so I can take the modifications off later and use the pattern again as it was originally intended.

Behold my works ye mighty, and despair

This makes both the front and the front facing quite a bit bigger, and the facing will now need to be cut from the pattern fabric, rather than lining fabric, as it’s a foldback collar that exposes the inside of the coat.  Good job I bought plenty of fabric.

To make sure that I’ve got enough room to play with, I’ve cut the pattern a size larger than I would normally use.  That gives me scope to trim out any excess, and adjust seams as necessary to get a good fit.

The fabric I’m using is a crepe-style fabric I bought on Goldhawk Road.  I have no idea what it’s made of, but it feels like a polyester.  I have a lot of it, not least as it only cost £4 per metre.


It’s quite lightweight, and would probably benefit from being lined.  But since I’m going to be wearing Missy in the summer I’ll try to get away without lining it.  But I will include the pockets.  Because pockets are useful.

The only piece of the jacket I haven’t yet cut is the collar.  It will probably need adjusting to allow for the different line of the fronts and backs of the jacket.  I’ll make a toile of that once I have the bodice together.  That will let me have a bit of a play so that I can get the fit and shape right.

Tomorrow, I’ll get the machine out, neaten the raw edges and start the construction.


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